Pre-Owned Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Moonphase Chronograph 40930064/AS05634

WHY WE LOVE IT

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Of course, there’s no arguing that Patek Philippe sits atop the watchmaking pinnacle as the finest manufacture in the world.

But while Patek is world renowned for its superb in-house movements, it should be noted that up until fairly recently, even its complicated chronographs used source Swiss movements from the likes of Lemania, and before that, Valjoux. Of course, these were superbly finished versions of ebauchés, but this is old-school watchmaking in a nutshell: A maison such as Patek would source the parts from the very best manufacturers, and in the 1980s and 1990s, that was Lemania.

The Reference 3970E we have here is a waterproof version of a perpetual calendar chronograph produced between 1986 and 2004, preceded by the ref. 2499 and succeeded by the ref. 5970. It’s powered by the Calibre CH 27-70 Q manually-wound movement — Patek’s modified version of the Lemania Calibre 2310. Hand-finished and beautiful, it formed the basis of not only this watch, but also the Calibre 321 used in the first Omega Speedmatsers.

What is this notable movement powering? Namely, a dial with an incredible amount of information, conveyed in an elegant form that only a maison such as Patek Philippe could design: On its beautiful silvered dial with applied yellow gold indices, there are dual day and month displays beneath the 12:00 index; a combined 30-minute totalizer and leap year indicator at 3:00; a combined date wheel and moon phase indicator at 6:00; and a combined running seconds and 12-hour totalizer at 9:00. (And yes, the 3970E also tells the time.)

Housed in a beautifully finished 36mm yellow gold case with round pushers, this particular 3970 is an “E” variant — for étanche, or waterproof — meaning it features a screw-down case back. It comes fitted to a signed black alligator leather strap with a signed yellow gold pin buckle.

Beautifully sized with a gorgeous dial and featuring one of the most notable chronograph movements in history, we’ll be damned if this isn’t one of the most stunning complicated watches we’ve ever had the pleasure to offer.

OVERALL CONDITION

The case is in fantastic condition overall showing light signs of wear consistent with age and use. Satin silver dial with recessed sub registers and applied yellow gold indices is in as-new condition with matching 'pencil' handset. Sapphire exhibition caseback. 18K signed crown.